June 12 - 21: Corsica is located in the Mediterranean Sea - We hiked & climbed from Calenzana to Vizzavona, the northern half of the GR20: totalling 112 km / 9239m cumulative elevation gain / highest point 2607m
Why is this called the toughest trek in Europe and at the same time one of the best treks in the world? 98% of this route has no trail so you must rely on the red & white striped waymarks. Most of the time you're walking on rugged rocky unforgiving terrain with very little flat ground. The huts + food are very basic, crowded and noisy with the exception of two locations. Don't forget your earplugs for those drunken snorners! But the reward was amazing views while high ridge climbing, and a diverse mix of colorful alpine lakes, giant pine & beech trees and rugged ridges shaped with towers, spires and slabs that are usually tackled only by mountaneers.
We did the high route which took 9 days. The northern half is considered to be more difficult because of steeper rocky and more exposed paths. Thankfully Judith knew basic French. Without that we would've been lost, as the French do not speak English.
The weather was perfect. The frequent afternoon storms did not happen. We had no rain which meant we could keep trekking. Wet rock would've been a no go. We did not have to take our heavy ice-axes + microspikes as the snow had just melted on the route, which also meant a better water supply. The temperatures were in the upper 20s, so still doable. Our heaviest item to carry on our backs (besides my Fuji-film X-T3 of course), was water. On an average day I took 4 litres (8.3 lbs).
Let my photos tell the rest of my story...
June 10: We spent 3 days in Holland first, getting over the jet lag before flying to Paris and then Bastia in Corsica with Case's sister, Judith + Thea, the mother of our son-in-law who is a neighbour to Case's other sister, Janet in the Netherlands. Case struggled with jet lag, not listening to us about avoiding taking those long naps late in the day.
June 11: Motel le Colibri, close to the airport in Bastia.
We took the train to Calvi and then a short taxi ride to Calenzana where the departure point for the famous GR20 was. This took the better part of the day.
Eucalyptus trees at the train station.
The Corsican beer; Pietra was delicious! Especially in hot sweaty weather.
6-pic slider: Campo Santo de Tedeschi 1732
Calenzana is one of Corsica's most important cultural regions, cultivating vines & olive trees, making honey and raising goats for their reknowned cheese.
1) Ocean blue Morning Glory 2) Oleander 3) Orange Tree 4) Woolly Joint Prickly Pear cactus
Humongous Prickly Pear Cactus.
1) The Romanesque Chapelle di Santa Restitua; the burial place of a Christian martyr in 303AD.
2) Swallow nests.
June 12: Day 1-- Calenzana (250m) to d'Ortu di u Piobbu (1270M) -- 14 km / 1600m gain / 1570m high point / 6:15 hours MT
All fresh, clean and rearing to go. In our go-to book for this trek: The GR20 CORSICA by Paddy Dillon, it states for our first day: "This day is a fine introdution to the rigours and the delights of the GR20- it's your baptism by fire"
Excited, apprehensive, eager; a mix of emotions as we took our first steps on a trip of a lifetime, planned 3 years ago, before Covid hit. Would we be OK? Injuries, fatigue, dehydration, strained muscles, etc. Could we do it? The uncertain immediate future lay before us.
As many as 30,000 people trek this route annually. A well worn trail.
We started 250m and hiked up to 1570m. For the remainder of the trek we would stay at around that altitude for the night, rising to higher heights (with the exception of the second day) throughout the day.
Leaving Calenzana behind.
There was an alternate lower route this day but we took the higher one which is shorter but more demanding.
1) Milk Thistle 2) Everlasting-pea 3) Golden Fleece
Charred remains of a fire in 1982.
1) Montpelier Cistus 2) Pink Rockrose
1) Queen Anne's Lace 2) Broom was the predominant blooming plant.
Laricia pines.
At the Bucca a u Saltu pass: 1250m.
The other side of the pass involved some scrambling.
Steep ups and downs on the slopes of Capu Ghiovu.
2) Common Spotted-orchid
Juniper lines the trail.
An open viewpoint.
The trail turned left onto a ridge full of broom with some alder & birch trees. Now we could also see the higher distant mountains.
Looking back.
When I first spotted the tents of camp #1, I thought, "How are we going to get there with this big deep valley between us?" But the trail wound tightly along the end of the valley. All of the huts for the first 5 days had helicopter landing pads. They transport food, supplies and injured trekkers.
Looking back from the campsite, glad to finally see the others filtering in.
The hut at this Refuge d'Ortu di u Piobbu was deliberatly burnt down in 2019. So we had to sleep in tents. Showers at all the huts were cold and a sink provided water to wash your clothes and faces in and brush your teeth. With an estimated 150 hikers at every refuge, it helped to come a bit earlier, which the Timmermanses are not so good at. But we did improve as the days went by.
The dinners were a simple pasta with not much else in it. Breakfasts were the typical white French bread with not much else (a bit of jam). It was hard enough that you could whack each other on the head with it. Prepared lunches included more French bread + granola bar + packaged applesauce.
Case making friends with a chicken. They were enjoying the food crumbs and were contained at night.
We slept in tents 2 nights. The pads were so thin and uncomfortable. I slept with my head at Case's feet because he was snoring so loud.
June 13: Trek day #2 -- d'Ortu di u Piobbu (1570m) to refuge de Carozzu (1270m) -- 13.75 km / 829m gain / 1270m high point / 5:15 hours MT
This is the only day Judith & I took the lower route, so as to stay with Thea & Case. But we decided at the end of the day to not do that again because we descended in the cool part of the morning and had to climb back up to the hut in the hot part of the day. I question if this was the easier route to take. It was 5 km longer and 80m more gain than the higher route. I missed out on the higher views and scrambling was not an issue for me. We decided to split up, since there was too much of a difference between Case & Thea's paces and ours.
Leaving our place of sanctuary for the night.
1) We saw many of these little speckled black & jade-green lizards 2) Chives
Laricio pine.
2) Red-helleborine 3) Cat Thyme 4) Sowbread
Ruisseau de Melaghia.
When I saw this I thought, "Why so many cairns so close together?" Later I learned that the tradition is that when a hiker passes a rock pile, they add a stone to it.
This wide gravel path runs alongside the Roncu river. There were rock-climbers on the cliffs across from us.
A small moment of panic/confusion when we did not see a marker pointing the way to our next hut at this boulder strewn river. There was no mention of a parking lot in the book. Would we have to backtrack in this hot weather? Then Judith found the sign by the parking lot on the other side of the Roncu river. Phew.
Now it was a relentless steep climb in the hottest part of the day.
Laricio pine gave way to maritime pine, holm oak and arbutus trees.
Ruisseau de Spasimata.
Ahhh. A chance to cool off.
Almost there. This picnic table dates back to 1938.
These horses and mules did not seem to be so sure-footed on the rocks.
The Carozzu hut is perched on the only piece of flat ground in the area at 1270m.
This flag became official when Corsica became independent in 1762. P Paoli ordered that the blindfold be lifted from the Moor's eyes and placed as a bandana on his forehead to symbolise the liberation of the island.
After seeing the long line-ups at the showers, Case & I followed Steve's directions and took a dip in a small pool hidden behind this smooth granite above the bridge.
June 14 - Trek day #3 -- de Carozzu Hut (1270) to Haut Asco hostel/restaurant ski resort(1422m) -- 6 km / 1077m gain / 5:30 hours
Tents perched on the terrace due to lack of space on the limited level ground.
A helicopter landing pad built on a cliff.
Only two people at a time were allowed on this foot-bridge because it was so wobbly.
We were aiming for the pass just left of the right hump.
Crossing the sloping Spasimata Slabs needed caution and at times the assistance of the chains.
Nice to be climbing in the shade.
The towering peak of Muvrella partly overhangs the gap.
At the Bocca Muvrella pass (1980m).
After lunch at the pass, the route did a downward horseshoe, heading first right and then left.
Heading left, we crested the ridge in the foreground.
Judith had to help that lady in the right photo. She was a bit too broad to fit through that narrow crack.
Judith approaching the second pass; Bocca a i Stagni (2003m).
Our first views of the Haut Asco hostel / restaurant. It was a decieving optical illusion. It looked close by but it was a knee-grinding jarring gruelling 1:30 hour descent. Some steps were even too high for my long legs.
Laricio pines.
Judith and I got first choice for our 2-bunkbed room without a door. We beat the large group to it this time.
After a cold shower we had these delicious desserts. This refuge for the night was actually a ski-station (1422m). Thea had alot of trouble getting down that very steep and long slope so they decided to take the fourth day off (knowing it'd be the hardest day of the trek), and getting a taxi to pick them up and go sightseeing. I have to give her alot of credit, having shorter legs and coming from such a flat country with not much opportunity to train.
June 15: Trek day #4 -- Haut Asco (1422m) to Auberge u Vallone (1440m) -- 13 km / 1400m gain / 2607 m high point / 4:45 hrs MT
This was the most challenging day, having more exposure, rock climbing and endurance challenges.
A merciful stretch of forest, following alongside a creek with numerous small waterfalls, before the constant upward grunt to the pass.
The route headed to the left.
That's it for the easy part. Now it was scrambling and balancing and pulling on chains and high body-hoisting steps with a 20lb. pack on our back. We were thankful to be in the shade for this part.
This valley is known as the Towers of Rock including the ominous overhang (right) of La Tour Penchee.
Next came a less steep slope on loose rock.
1) Field Chickweed 2) Hairy Hawkbit
We climbed to the right of that tower of black rock.
View from the top of the loose rock slope.
Looking back.
As I approached this massive buttress, I thought, "How on earth are we supposed to reach the pass from there???" If not for the red & white painted markers, I never would've known.
There were hikers descending from the opposite direction. There were also helicopters scouring the area - for injured hikers?
This was one of the exposed spots where there wasn't alot of solid rock to hang on to and a fall would mean certain death.
Made it! 2607m high at Pointe des Eboulis; the highest point on the whole GR20.
The highst peak on the island is Monte Cinto to the left. It's only 99m higher than where were but it would've been another 2 hours of negotiating rugged terrain added to an already long day.
Alpine Chough
From the pass the trail went right, towards this ridge that we were to cross over.
Extreme caution crossing the flanks of Punta Crucetta.
Approaching the pass at Bocca Crucetta (2452m).
On the other side of the ridge we did a bit of boot-sliding on this scree.
1) Horned Rampion 2) Hellebore
Passing the refuge de Tighjettu (1683m). It was still another 30 minutes to get to the next hut.
By the time we got to Auberge U Vallone, we were exhausted. And then Judith (the only one who could communicate in French) had to find a spot to pitch our tents too yet which proved difficult since most spots were already taken. She almost ended up in tears. I marched up to Case who'd hiked a short distance on a flat route to this hut and was sipping beer with 2 dutch guys, and gave him an aggitated ear full. He promptly got up. We soon found a spot by these sheds close to the hut. This was the only site where we had to set up our own tent.
Judith & Thea decided to sleep in the empty shed. A cold beer, a spot secured for the night and a shower helped to make us happy once again.
June 17 - Trek day #5 -- Auberge U Vallone (1422m) to Hotel Castel di Vergio (1404m) -- 16 km / 1039m gain / 6 hours
This was a Sound-of-Music sort of day. The rolling green & yellow alpine meadows, below magnificant granite peaks was so pretty. It reminded me of my favorite movie.
I was not too happy with my husband when he called in a loud voice,"Time to get up!" I checked my watch and it was only 4:30am!!! He'd slept in the supply hut over night so he wouldn't keep me awake with his snoring. He saw other hikers were getting up and decided it was time for us to as well.
Case & Thea decided to skip breakfast and get a one-hour earlier start. But we ran into them not to far down the trail. They had gone the wrong way and had to backtrack.
Heading for the Bocca de Foggiale pass (1962m).
A short scrambly section.
Views from the pass. Yellow broom bushes brightened the meadows.
A bit more gentle uphill and then no more climbing for the day.
Awl-leaf Pearlwort
The refuge de Ciottulu di I Mori (1991m). We stopped there for a cold drink and replenished our water supply.
You can do a moderate hike to Paglia Orba Mt. from the refuge.
There were many hikers taking advantage of the cool pools of water along the trail. We soaked our sore feet in them.
1) Foxglove 2) Fieldbriar
After passing the Bergerie de Radule, and passing a large group of students, the trail just seemed to go on and on in the heat. Later Case & Thea said they felt the same way. So it was especially welcome to see the Hotel Castel. When we walked in we saw pasteries with whip cream! And we got our own room. That warm shower never felt so good. And they even had a laundromat! Ahh. How one appreaciates the simple things in life after having been deprived of them for a while.
June 16 - A designated day of rest. And it was needed. The last two days I'd been feeling my feet after the hike. They didn't bother me anymore in the remaining 4 days of the trek. We took a taxi to the historic town of Cortes. The one thing I didn't like about our day of rest is that we lost contact with the friends we'd made in the beginning of the trek.
It was a one-hour winding taxi drive down to Cortes.
The citadel of Corte is the only one of six to have been built inland.
The castle was built in 1419 and is situated 111m above the Restonica and Tavignanu rivers. In 1769 the capital of Corsica fell into the hands of the French who added army barracks in 1776.
We visited the museum that you have to enter to get to the citadel. Since this was our day of rest, we hopped on the train to get around town. With sweltering temperatures of 33C (28C at our hotel), walking was not an option.
10-pic slider: the citadel
5-pic slider: The church at the base of the citadel.
French emporer, Napolean Bonapart, was born in 1769 in the Corsican capital of Ajaccio.
June 18, trekking day #6 -- Hotel Castel di Vergio (1404m) to refuge de Manganu (1601m) -- 17 km / 670m gain / 5 hours
This was a relaxing day with no scrambling and no steep parts. These last 4 days, we heard the regular sound of cow bells dingling in the bush.
A beech tree.
The bocca San Pedru (1452m).
From there the path leads to the left.
Permanently bent by the wind.
This is where we ran into Case & Thea who had started out earlier again. We had to call several people back from taking a wrong turn here. They should've marked that corner better.
At the bocca a Reta (1883m).
Lac du Ninu is 11m deep in the centre (1745m).
Pozzines in the turf.
Bergerie de I'Inzecche.
Case said this forest of gnarly beech trees reminds him of the film: Lord of the Rings.
Bergeries de Vaccaghja. We could see our hut ahead, across the meadows.
View to our left.
Arrived.
Ahhh. Cool water on my two feet. No, that's not a blister on my little toe. I stubbed it on a rock my 1st day on the GR20 while wearing my flip-flops. Thankfully the pain subsided after the first few hours of hiking.
Unlike the second hut, which had a similar set up, we did not sleep in, knowing day #7 would again be a more challenging day. That second night I'd woken at 5:30am, thinking good for me -- until I looked around and us 4 were the only ones still in bed! Everyone else had already packed and left.
Mingling with another couple while having dinner. Pasta again.
Four Jacks while playing crib!
June 19: Trek day #7 -- refuge de Manganu (1601m) to refuge de Petra Piana (1842m) -- 11.6 km / 1124m gain / 2200m high point
This was a more challenging day.
Thea wasn't so sure about this day. But there were no alternate routes.
The moon shining in the early morning sky.
Sunrise.
The early morning crowd trying to beat the heat.
1) Snowdrop Anemone 2) Rocky Mt. Blue Columbine
Creeping Speedwell
Bocca a e Porte (2225m).
On the other side.
The two lakes: Capitellu & Melo. They look like craters.
Traversing the steep slopes of Punta a e Porte.
A traffic jam at the chained area at Breche de Capitell (2090m).
Pic 2: This was the highest step we had to take -- about 7' high! The man infront of me helped with my poles, it being especially awkward with my camera bag infront of me. We had to grab and pull our body & backpack up and over.
Looking across the valley at Lac de Capitellu (centre of pic).
A third lake: Lac du Renosu.
1) Many-headed Thrift 2) Pigmy Hawksbeard
Refuge de Petra Piana. Judith and I reserved spots in the hut. But after talking to personel in the restaurant/store, she ran outside frantically saying we had to take our bedding out immediately! The hut was infested with bed bugs! So we hung our bedding out in the sun for an hour and had no after effects.
This was the highest hut and the only time I wished I'd taken my winter coat. I used my sleeping bag instead.
Judith & I had real french fries here! Case & Thea not because they stopped making them at 4:00pm.
We played games in the hut because they had a nice table there and it was warmer and no one else went in there because of the bed bugs.
June 20 - Trek day #8 -- Refuge de Petra Piana (1842m) to refuge de l'Onda (1431m) -- 8.4 km / 510m gain / 4 hours
This day Case & Thea took the lower route while we took the higher route which involved hiking on the ridge to the right before dropping down into a valley.
Saying goodbye to Thea & Case.
1) Blue-leaved Rose 2) Haller's Surmountain
A few exposed sections as we skirted the summit of Punta Murace (1921m) and reached a rounded summit on Serra Bianca.
The mellow summits of Punta di I Pinzi Corbini (2021m) + Serra di Tenda (1991m).
This time the bells were for goats.
2/3 up that gravel ridge we turned left.
I made a wide berth around this bull.
Looking at the green ridge we'd be climbing the next and final day.
Our last refuge. The hut was nice and quiet because it was a 54m climb to it from the restaurant.
At the restaurant. They served a delicious lasagne full of spinache and gewy fresh goat cheese.
Mingling with the English and Germans.
June 21: Trekking day 9 -- refuge de L'Onda (1431m) to Vizzavona -- 13 km / 990m gain / 1500m loss / 7:30 hours
Was it the fact that physiologically we knew this was our last day or that our bodies were just done, that left us feeling so tired?
Judith & I could not be like Case & Thea and skip our breakfast. They again took an alternate link route this day.
Up & over the Punta Muratello pass (2100m).
Careful steps on this smooth slab with no good footholds
The I'Agnone Ruisseau river was full of waterfalls and lovely rock pools.
The lower we got the more people we ran into. They were mostly soaking and swimming in the pools.
Done!!! Within 10 minutes of us getting to the train station, Case & Thea walked in! Good timing! A toast to having completed the northern half of Europe's hardest trek! Now for the southern half...
We spent two nights at Hotel Levolle Marine by the ocean. This day after the our last day on the trail, it was cloudy and the next day when we flew back to Holland it rained.
Judith & Thea took a dip in the ocean but I didn't because I didn't have a bathing suit. But then neither did they. We all had only 2 sets of clothes with us. Everything we had had to be carried on our backs.
The hotel's restuarant was closed because of the later hour so we went next door which was rather costly but it was Judith's birthday and we were hungry so we treated her.
June 22 - We rented a car and drove down the east side of the island to the very southern point to Bonifacio.
9-pic slider: We first we stopped in at the Aleria museum which houses many of the fascinating finds from the archeological site beside it.
Life size statues.
Case picking forbidden fruit.
I did a quick walk to this tower while the others had lunch.
Bonifacio.
4-pic slider:
3-pic slider:
5-pic slider: Case & I walked down the Devil's Staircase and along the cliff.
8-pic slider:
3-pic slider: A large cemetary in the old town. Whole families were buried in cubicles in these small rooms.
A church close to the cemetery.
3-pic slider: Leaving the old town.
June 23 - We drove round the northern tip of the island.
3-pic slider: The church by the beach where we stopped for refreshments.
Left at noon.
Little did we know we'd be making an emergency landing...
20 minutes into the flight we started smelling a strong sulfur scent. The flight attendent in the front of the cabin was frantically off & on the phone, looking rather alarmed. What was going on? Then he told us to "please stay calm, but we have to make an emergency landing. Check out your emergency exits and don't take anything with you if you have to use them. Put up your hand if you see anything." Needless to say, those long minutes of desending and especially of landing were very tense. I was begging God to please not let me dye yet. I wanted to live for my children and grandchildren. As we neared the runway, three firetrucks were waiting for us with their red lights flashing. We landed and lived. Thank you God.
Two firemen entered the cabin and I assume were checking for toxic fumes. We were allowed to disembark 10 minutes later.
KLM provided us with a free hotel + taxi. We were off to Holland the next day.
What a fabulous trip, the views are outstanding!!! Very impressive accomplishment...., also impressed by your identification of those alpine flowers over there in a totally different biogeoclimatic zone!
Great shots.....I love the way the guys are looking at Case with the chicken on his lap....
Looks like you had an awesome trip.